Are Rabbits Right for You?
Taking on a rabbit or two is a huge responsiblilty, and although most people think it is an easier option than say, a cat or a dog, you would be mistaken if you thought this. Infact, peoples misunderstanding of what these animals really do need is what leads most of them to end up in our rescue.
Make an informed choice
Read through all of the information here, come and see us, talk to us & think carefully before you decide:
- Are rabbits for me?
- My children want rabbits. Are they ok for children?
- How much space does my rabbit need?
- I have heard rabbits are not very bright. Will they need any toys?
- I only want one rabbit, or perhaps a guinea pig as well, what is best?
- Rabbits are cheap and easy to feed aren’t they? I thought they just ate carrots and rabbit food?
- Do rabbits suffer any particular health problems I should look out for?
- What will my rabbits cost?
- So why should I get rabbits then?
Are rabbits for me?
We think rabbits are simply wonderful but, to try and cram all the information we have about rabbits onto one website would keep you in reading material for the next 10 years!
Perhaps this is both the joy and the downfall of rabbits all in one. They are so complex, so hugely interesting, intelligent and full of joy….all the things people generally don’t credit them with. In my opinion they are the MOST misunderstood animals currently kept as pets. They are an “underclass” of pet… just as intelligent..if not more so than a cat or dog and yet people still put them into a blank wooden hutch and expect them to be happy for the ten years or so that they will live. Hardly surprising then that most rabbits end up with behaviour and health problems, are unwittingly abused, abandoned or end up in a rescue like ours. Too often they are bought at childrens pets for which they are generally unsuitable, and they are much longer lived than most people appreciate.
There is an explosion of rabbits in rescue all over the country and through our network of contacts we are all agreed that this level of “turnover” is unsustainable. We believe the answer lies in EDUCATION. If people really understood the animals needs…they might think twice. Just as a dog is for life, not just for Christmas…. so a bunny is for life, not just for Easter. Please join our fight and educate yourself….we are here to help! We hope you find this information useful, but it isn’t exhaustive. There is simply so much to learn that we couldn’t possibly cover it all!! Below are the most common questions people ask, but if you can think of anything else, contact us, we are happy to help.
My children want rabbits. Are they ok for children?
This may not be what you want to hear, but generally, no, they aren’t. Rabbits are prey animals by nature and fear loud noises and fast movement. They are physically delicate and fragile but with strong powerful back legs they use for defence. Children are naturally energetic & loving. But “loving” to a small child usually means holding, cuddling & carrying an animal around in whatever grip their small hands can manage - precisely the kinds of things that make most rabbits feel insecure and frightened. Rabbits handled in this way will often start to kick out, scratch or bite simply out of fear. Rabbits back legs are so powerful that an unsupported and repeated kick has been known to cause rabbits to break their own backs. Many rabbits are accidentally dropped by small children, resulting in broken legs and backs. Those rabbits who survive the first few months quickly reach maturity. Rabbits that are not neutered will begin to display territorial behaviour & when they are no longer tiny and “cute,” kids often lose interest. The rabbit, who has no voice to remind you he’s hungry & thirsty, lonely & bored, is desperate for some space to run in or needs his cage cleaned, is gradually neglected & will develop a deep depression and eventually will become agressive. The child will no longer handle the rabbit because they are afraid of being bitten and the circle is complete. The best thing at that stage is that the rabbit ends up in a rescue, but far to many are condemned to spend the rest of their lives ignored in their hutch. Of course this is the most bleak and negative scenario, but it is happening right now to rabbits all over the country and we would be doing them a dis-service if we didnt tell you what the downs were as well as the ups. Small children and rabbits are generally a combination avoided but as with all things you as a parent are the best person to judge your own childrens ability to care for and understand the rabbits needs. Older children are of course a different matter entirely.
Parents, please help. If you’re thinking about adding a rabbit to your family think about this: pet rabbits have a lifespan of 7-10 years. Don’t buy on impulse. Make an informed decision by learning about rabbit care first and be realistic about your childs ability to understand and learn about the care process. Think about your own childs character. Are they able to take in all the information about the rabbits needs and apply it every single day? If the answer is yes, then brilliant, educating young people about animal care is wonderful. We are about to begin a programme of education in local schools. If your childs school would like to be involved, please contact us for more information. If the answer is no, perhaps you should start thinking again about rabbit ownership.
How much space does my rabbit need?
A rabbit is the size of the average small cat. Infact some giant breeds of rabbits are MUCH bigger than your average cat or dog! Imagine what would happen if you placed a cat into a hutch…for 10 years…the average life span of both a cat and rabbit. What would happen? Frustration? Loneliness? Anger? Boredom? Depression? … well yes, all of that and more. Your rabbit will end up with multitude of muscle wasting and brittle bone disorders, deformed feet and behaviour issues that are very very difficult to resolve. Bear in mind that 99% of the hutches commercially available are not big enough for ONE tiny bunny. (Remember what I said about them being a misunderstood underclass of pet, because of what is available in the shops, people assume this is all they need . This is not the case)
The minimum size we recommend is a large hutch with enough space for the rabbit to take 4 consecutive hops along one side and three along another. In addition, they should have an enclosed sleeping area large enough for them to lay on their side fully stretched out in both directions. Your bunny should also be able to “periscope” inside its hutch (stand on its back legs and look around) Rabbits should never be kept alone…so take the dimensions of the hutch we have just described…and double it. This is why a lot of people buy wendy houses or sheds for their rabbits and have them live in. Commercial hutches just do not cut it size wise. Please see the “shopping list” for hutches we can provide or for links to websites which sell reasonably priced bunny homes which can be delivered to your door.
The best type of hutches also have an attached run. This means you only have to open the door for your bunny in the morning, which is great if you are short of time. A run should give you rabbit room to race!! Rabbits that race and do jumps and kicks are very happy bunnies! We recommend that if it is possible to bunny proof your garden (ie enclose it securely at bunny height) then your bunnies will really appreciate a good bop out in the freedom of the garden as often as possible. Never leave your bunny unattended in the garden with nowhere to run to for safety. They don’t stand a chance against a large cat or an urban fox. If this isn’t possible then the largest possible area you can offer your bunny is the best you can do. Remember that bunnies will always be bunnies. They will dig holes on your lawn and in your flower beds, chew things, wee and poo, thump loudly with their back legs when they are worried and generally destroy things. This just rabbits doing what they do…and indeed what they need to do. So, if your lawn is too precious, your boarders perfect…weeded and fed with chemical fertilizers and phosphates, manicured and green…don’t have rabbits, they aren’t for you!
Alternatively…your rabbits could live inside your house with you as house rabbits. Think this is a mad idea?? Come and meet our wonderfully entertaining and loving house bunnies any time you like! There are no hutches to clean out, you don’t have to worry about predators or bad weather, they don’t smell, are easily litter trained and command voice trained (yes, really!) don’t bark at the postman or need taking for walks in all weathers like a dog, don’t scratch your sofa and run up your curtains like cats and are generally the perfect house pet. We cant think of one single disadvantage to keeping our house rabbits. Think about it…it really does make sense.
I have heard rabbits are not very bright. Will they need any toys?
Bunnys are VERY clever, much more so than most people know and they need to keep their minds active. They are perfectly capable of learning their names and simple commands like “come here bunny!” Infact, our bunnies really enjoyed their training and were eager to learn more and more. It will strengthen the bond between you too.
Be inventive! Bunnys like things they can roll or push along, tubes they can run through and under, things they can pull at and throw in the air, chew and nibble. Try…toilet rolls stuffed with hay, old phone books for tearing up, flower pots, cardboard boxes, hanging vegetables on string and suspending them at bunny height is a favourite as they have to work for their food, and there are a multitude of very very good commercially available toys as well. (See our shopping list- Tam please link to shopping list page- for websites which sell endorsed bunny toys) Find out what makes your bunny tick. If they like digging the try filling a box with soil, hay and ripped up paper with a cheap door mat in the bottom. It will keep them digging for hours. If they like tearing things, give them paper of different textures, cardboard and corrugated things plus fruit tree twigs to strip the bark off. Be inventive and have fun with your ideas! Your bunny will love you for it!
I only want one rabbit, or perhaps a guinea pig as well, what is best?
Rabbits are hugely social. They form bonds with one another that last a lifetime and the loss of a partner causes a grief process exactly the same as humans feel. A bonded pair will comfort and groom one another, cuddle together, play together and generally entertain one another. It is fundamentally unfair to keep a rabbit alone but whatever you have heard, seen, read or been told never never never keep a rabbit with a guinea pig. I could list a thousand reasons why, and we are happy to talk about it further with you, but please trust us. Don’t do it.
So, pair of bunnies is a good place to start! We have found male and female pairings work best, although litter mates of the same sex, and sometimes complete strangers of the same sex do work as well.
Both male and female bunnies must be neutered or spayed. Female bunnies who are not spayed will have repeated “false” pregnancies and will eventually develop uterine cancer, a horribly painful but silent way to die as the bunny will show virtually no symptoms until it is too late. Unspayed females will rarely live more than 4 years. The hormonal fluctuations experienced by an unspayed female can cause fights with their companion rabbits and general misery all round. Make sure you choose a rabbit savvy vet to carry out the procedure as it does (as with all operations) carry a risk. You should look to pay between £60 and £80 per rabbit to have this done. Males should always be neutered, again for their own health as well as to prevent sexual frustation and aggressive behaviour. If you are considering adopting baby bunnies. you must get them neutered or spayed as soon as they reach sexual maturity. Bunnies are prolific breeders because in the wild the mortalilty rate among the young is so huge. Of course domestic bunnies have retained this ability and “accidental” litters account for a huge number of the rabbits in rescues around the country. Be a part of the solution and get yourself educated. We have produced an information sheet, “The case against breeding” which goes into this in more detail if you would like one, please ask.
Rabbits are cheap and easy to feed aren’t they? I thought they just ate carrots and rabbit food?
Bunnies need an awful lot more than a bowl of bunny mix, some carrots and some water and all bunny foods are not the same!!
The most important thing that rabbits need is fibre, fibre, fibre! Rabbits are grazing animals and their whole digestive systems are set up for this. They need constant access to long fibre such as hay and grass, but this must be apetising. Don’t buy the awful dry stuff in a bag from a pet shop. This is usually old, full of pesticides and fungal spores and is vastly over priced. Try and get organic, fresh hay in a bale from a local farm or horse food supplier. Its so much cheaper and much better for your bunnies. Also try and get hold of a horse feed product called “readigrass” this is just pure dried grass and is a fantastic source of both fibre and naturally occouring vitamins and minerals for your bunny. Ours go mad for it!
Give your bunnies fresh fruit & vegetables (a large handful per rabbit is fine) every day. Go for dark green leafy vegetables such as spring greens, kale, cabbages, herbs, broccoli, pears, apples, bananas (which ours go mad over), melon, grapes, berries and so on are all fine. See what your rabbit likes best. Never give you bunny tomatoes or lettuice. They contain oxalic acid and are poisionous to bunnies. Also avoid anything (except for the occasional treat) with high calcium or phosperous content such as parsley. Bunnies cant use it in their systems and it forms a “sludge” in their bladders that can lead to stones. Expect to spend around £5-£10 per week on vegetables for your rabbits. You will note there is no mention of carrots here! We believe that “rabbits like carrots” is a myth. They certainly like the green tops off the carrots, but all the bunnies here will tend to eat everything else before they will eat any carrots at all.
Try not to be tempted to give your bunnies commercially available treats. They are simply marketed towards making you feel you are doing something special for your pet by spending money on them. Don’t be taken in! They are full of artificial colourings and flavourings and your bunny doesn’t need them!! Instead give them currants, seeds, nuts or dried fruits available from health food stores. They will love them much more I promise!
Of course in the wild they would have a huge variety of greenery to choose from, but the diet we offer them is sadly lacking. The best way around this is to offer them a pellet type food to make up for the shortfall in vitamins and minerals. I have investigated virtually every single type of food available and I maintain the very best out there is Burgess Supa Rabbit Excel (see shopping list). Its is 100% balanced to their nutritional needs and prevents “selective” feeding. My bunnies seem to love the taste of it and will tend to choose it over the commercial “mix” type feeds. Although “mixes” are interesting to the eye and mouth, they tend to just pick out the bits they like from these foods which means they don’t get all the vitamins they need. However, once a week, I offer them a small bowl of this as a treat, just to give them something different to eat. The best one is from the natural pet food company (see links) Be careful though, don’t totally change your rabbits diet over night. They will get diarrhoea. Not nice!
Do rabbits suffer any particular health problems I should look out for?
On the subject of health, as well as the neutering and spaying mentioned earlier, ALL domestic rabbits must be vaccinated against Mixymatosis and Viral Haemorragic disease (VHD) with yearly boosters. You might think these diseases only affect wild rabbits, but this is not so, and because so many domestic rabbits are not vaccinated by irresponsible owners, both illnesses are becoming common in domestic rabbits. You can expect to pay around £30 per rabbit to have this done each year. Both of these illnesses are fatal. Don’t risk it.
You will need to keep an eye on your rabbits claws. If they are getting enough run space they shouldn’t need clipping very often, but you will either need to learn to do this yourself, or your vet nurse can do it for you. We also offer this service here at the rescue for a small donation.
Rabbits teeth are constantly growing and teeth and mouth problems are very common among rabbits. Look for lack of appetite, wet under the chin and chewing in an odd fashion. If you notice this see a vet right away. Even a short time off their food and rabbits can develop “gut statis” which is fatal if untreated.
Rabbits sometimes get skin problems. They do moult (shed their fur) a few times a year and this is quite normal. However, if your rabbits skin appears to have dandruff, is dry and flakey, or has any red or broken patches, or if the fur is coming out in large clumps, and is causing your bunny irritation, then see a vet. There may be an underlying health problem as rabbits rarely get skin mites and infections for no reason.
Head tilt is a condition rabbits suffer from quite rarely and is usually caused by an infection of the bacteria e.cuniculi. It is very serious, but is treatable. If your rabbit walks in circles, appears unbalanced and dizzy or tilts its head severely to one side and keeps it there, see a vet immediately.
Rabbits eat their own poo! Don’t worry about this, it is normal and healthy. Bunnies produce two types of poo. Round and fairly firm ones which you will find in their litter trays, and soft squishy ones called caecotrophs. The bunny will take these poos straight out of its bottom and eat them (yes, I know, its disgusting!) but they do this for good reason. They reingest these caecotrophs as a way of getting “good bacteria” needed for the digestion of long fibre back into their systems. Occasionally you will see one of these more squishy poos in the litter tray. Don’t worry, that’s fine. You only need to worry if your bunny does not do any formed poos at all or has diarrhoea. That is very serious and needs veterinary attention.
In the summer you must be careful of Fly Strike Some breeds of rabbit are more prone to this if they have fluffy coats around their bottoms, but you should be vigilant with all rabbits. If bunnies get poo stuck around their rear ends it can attract flies. Fly strike is when a fly lays its eggs in the matted fur or sometimes even just inside the anus. The eggs quickly hatch into maggots and the maggots eat everything around them including the rabbits skin. In severe cases where the maggots get into the rabbits body cavity they will eat through internal organs and in most cases the rabbit will die. I have only ever seen one rabbit with fly strike and I will never forget it as long as I live. Make sure you never have to see your rabbits go through this agony by checking every single day for poo caught in the rabbits fur, or for messy bottoms. If need be, wash your bunnys bum, or wipe with a baby wipe. Some bunnys benefit from clipping the fur around the bottom, although you shouldn’t try and do this if you don’t know what you are doing. There is a product on the market called “rear guard” which can help prevent this, but we also sell a natural aromatherapy option (See shopping list) which works just as well and makes your bun smell good too!
This list is NOT exhaustive, or intended to replace the advice of your vet. If you think your rabbit is ill make sure it receives veterinary attention as soon as possible.
What will my rabbits cost?
Rabbits are not cheap. Here is a basic breakdown of what your rabbit will cost you:
| Donation to the rescue centre you got your bunnies from: | Up to you |
| Hutch, run, litter trays, bowls etc | Around £200 plus |
| Toys, tubes, entertainment | £30 plus replacements |
| Food and vegetables | £5-10 per week |
| Bedding/hay etc | £5 per week |
| Neutering/Spaying | £ 60-£80 (each) |
| Vaccinations | £ 30 per year (each) |
| Incidental vet bills or pet insurance | £100 per year or more |
So why should I get rabbits then?
Bunnies are so much fun. They will surprise you, delight you, and love you unconditionally. Enjoy it! We haven’t really gone into what wonderful creatures they are, but you have to know about the downsides of ownership to have fully informed choice about what you are doing.
You are right in thinking that ownership is not to be taken lightly. Who will care for your rabbits while you are on holiday or if you are ill? What will happen to your rabbits when your children become bored of them or leave home (after all, your rabbit could live 10 years..), will you be able to afford vets bills, larger acoomodation as they grow, and weekly upkeep. Do you have the time your bunnies need every day? We are here to help. If you would like any advice or information, just call or e-mail. No problem too big or too small!
